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旧金山葡萄酒之旅 月之谷 索諾瑪(Sonoma)

2007-6-27 18:53:00 来自: (海淀) 最后更新时间:2007-6-27 18:53:26

评论: 美国 游记 索诺玛谷   

月牙形的索諾瑪位於舊金山以北約一小時車程的鄉間,這裡是加州馳名的葡萄莊園和酒鄉,我們這一家,三代同堂、五口同行,老弱婦孺全已概括;大腹便便的長女,待嫁的幼女、稚齡的外孫女、人老心不老的老媽、久居‘女兒國’的‘假’寶玉–老爸,是一組非常特別的隊伍,因為我們全不貪杯,又不善飲,還有遙遙未及法定年齡的小女娃哩!

其實旅遊的景點是次要的,最重要的是同行伙伴,只要‘人’對,天涯海角,處處都是美景隹境。前些年,當兩個女兒遠在外州唸大學,開學前,由老爸親征,老媽護送,由南至北,從東到西,數千里路長途跋涉,全家人就擠在裝滿行李的汽車中,一路說唱談笑,絲毫不覺路遙和無聊,‘上學行’也成了每年一度的例行家庭旅遊,好懷念這一段全家總動員的‘同車共濟﹙擠﹚’歲月。

轉瞬間,大女兒已為人母,馬上又要迎接第二個寶寶的來臨,她的記性特好,許多姐妹倆的童年趣事,經她提醒,又一一出現眼前,活潑生動,猶如昨日。二女兒年初文定,明年即將出閣,索諾瑪就是她和未婚夫選中舉行婚禮的場所,貼心的姐妹倆特意安排,讓我們重溫舊夢,乘我倆這趟返美探親,舉辦索諾瑪兩日一夜遊,全家人渡過一個溫馨的迷你之旅,一則為老媽補過生日,再則又為老爸慶祝遲到的父親節,並提前參觀婚禮場景,一石數鳥,真是好‘計’!

行駛在廣闊的山路上,只見車窗外的小丘上開遍了不知名的野花,最多的就是類似油菜花的小黃花,滿山遍谷煞是好看,臨近索諾瑪,果真看見大片的葡萄園,矮矮地似乎不及人高,車子快速經過,看不真切,不知葡萄藤上是否果實纍纍?今年又是豐收?美國百分之九十的葡萄酒盛產於加州,而加州的美酒又大多釀造於索諾瑪與鄰近的拿柏市。

傳說,古早的印地安人走在一座又一座連綿的山頭上,看到月亮連續七次升起,聖潔美麗,視為奇觀異象,所以索諾瑪才有‘月之谷’的美名,Sonoma在古老的印地安文中就是多數個月亮之意。

這裡酷似地中海型的特殊天氣,終年白天晴朗,夜晚涼爽,加上四億年的火山熔岩土質所提供的鐵與氮,蘊藏著索諾瑪山谷百年來葡萄美酒的秘密。

有人說1823年Jose Altimira神父成立加州最北最後一座教會時,在庭園中種下了索諾瑪的第一株葡萄樹;另一說是匈牙利籍的Colonel Agostin Haraszthy在1850年引進外國葡萄,替這個鄉下小城,開創出通往酒香的康莊大道,被尊為加州製酒工業之父。不管是史實或後人英雄式的穿鑿附會,葡萄是索諾瑪的生命、文化、財富與藝術。

我們下憩的旅舍就是明年婚禮的所在“ The Lodge at Sonoma”,它是渡假村的型式,有小木屋區和套房區,女兒們訂了相連的二間套房,中間有門相通,典雅中帶著古意。每間套房都有陽臺,室內並有火爐,在寒冬裡,燒著熊熊的烈火,一定既溫暖又有情調。可惜那幾天,室外,驕陽高照,氣溫高達一百零二度,打破灣區記錄,火爐自然是英雄無用武之地。倒是陽臺大大發揮了作用,立了小功,原來,次晨,女兒和外孫女穿越中間相通的門,到我們房中邀我們共進早餐時,一不小心,把門帶關鎖住後,無法再由中門返回她們的房間,而她們的正門,因為內鎖,又扣上鎖鏈,雖驚動數位旅館工作人員,聯手幫忙,用盡了各種方法,整整化了一小時也無法開啟,最後只好請他們效法樑上君子,架上扶梯,爬入陽臺,方才解決。

旅館餐廳的早餐真好吃,所有的果汁全是新鮮現榨,大多是‘自給自足’,在等待食物中,我推著邊門向外走去,庭園中種滿了蔬菜、水果,和比人還高的向日葵,艷紅的蕃茄,深紫的茄子,黃澄澄的柑桔,綠油油的甜椒,全都秀色可餐。我點的是蟹粉餅Crab Meat Cake,貨真價實,沒有摻和大量的麧包粉充數。大廚的手藝不賴,令我放心不少,我倆遠居上海,來此一趟不易,無法專誠在喜宴前再度前來試吃,屆時一切只有靠孩子們自辦自理,這頓早飯就權充暫代吧!

這個城市是許多新人最喜愛舉行戶外婚禮的所在之一,也許就是這裡的好天氣,成就了婚嫁事業的成功,據女兒告知,The Lodge at Sonoma明年已預約的婚禮到目前為止就有四十九場,真夠火紅。此外,旅遊小冊中介紹,光索諾瑪一城舉辦婚禮的場所,就有廾九處,這個小城,本身的人口,只有九千六百八十六人,但觀光客不少,尤其是來品酒的醉客和買酒的酒商,紿小城帶來了熱鬧和財富。

麻雀雖小,五臟俱全,索諾瑪市中心的「廣場」(Plaza)正是索諾瑪精神典型的象徵:古典與流行交會,正方形的綠色廣場中,以市府大門為中心標誌,周圍的商店區,有十八世紀的墨西哥教會遺址,泥磚灰牆砌成的古老旅館建築,以及各種不同風格的精緻餐館,酒店,以及古老的戲院。我們分嚐了Mary’s Pizza Shack的義大利皮薩和Amigos Grill & Cantina?的墨西哥美食,這兩間餐館在當地頗富盛名,果然名不虛傳,值得一訪。

索諾瑪除了盛產美酒外,也出產橄欖油,林立的商店裡除了試酒,有些店冢也可品嚐橄欖油,其實多吃橄欖油對心臟絕對有益,又可降膽固淳,許多家庭捨玉米油、豆油不用,而改用橄欖油烹調,不過價錢可不便宜。

這裡可玩的地方不少,除了打高爾夫球、騎馬、坐熱氣球、滑翔機外,小朋友們還可乘坐古老的火車,隨著時光隧道,回到過去。旅館的正對面就是佔地頗廣的舊火車站兼遊樂場,我們乘著大女兒陪小外孫女坐火車之際,趕緊抽空參觀葡萄園及品嚐美酒。

小女兒開車帶我倆抵達附近的小山坡,這裡是私人庭園Ravenswood Winery.,正好趕上早晨十點半的第一團,共有四十人參加,每人收費十元,一人分發一隻酒杯,帶團的是一位白髮蒼蒼的老先生,首先帶領大家走到葡萄園區,這個酒廠自1846年開始,己有一百多年歷史,是家族事業。只見綠葉、長藤下的葡萄成串成串的垂立著,和平日吃的長相大不相同,果實個頭小而堅硬﹙我好奇又偷偷地掐了一下﹚,據說再過一個月,就會長到兩倍大,葡萄成熟時,多半在九月間,索諾瑪每年勞工節的長假日,都會舉辦一年一度的豐收拍賣和嘉年華會,盈餘所得全都捐做慈善事業,所有的買家和豪客都會前來參加盛會,熱鬧非凡。

老先生熱心仔細地介紹,分析各種土壤、陽光、雨水、品種的不同,在烈日下,大家都被‘烤’得不可開交,無心聽講,等步入了貯存的酒窖大堂,馬上覺得涼爽起來,雖然沒有空調設備,但特殊的隔熱厚牆,使窖中別成天地。窖中成列了大大小小不同的橡木、柚木桶。每年葡萄成熟時,許多工讀生都會前來幫忙收成,所有的葡萄放置在木桶中發酵,我們試喝的葡萄酒就是去年十月收成釀製的,至今只有九個月,屬於新釀,還要再存上一年多,(要有二年以上,口感才好),再運到市場出售。我不懂酒,分辨不出高下好壞,只有裝模作樣的一連試喝了幾道後,才帶著微醺離開,也算到過酒鄉,不虛此行。

乾一杯!乾一杯!索諾瑪–月之谷!明年見!再來的時候,我將到山頭去看初升的明月,醉眼中,也許真的可以看到不止一輪。


葦婷於加州灣區2006年8月16日

Sonoma Plaza

Sonoma City Hall in the town plaza

Sonoma is a historically significant town in Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA. Sonoma is centered around its historic town plaza, a remnant of the town's Spanish colonial past. Sonoma today is a center of the wine industry for the famed Sonoma Valley Appellation. The city population was 9,128 as of the year 2000 census/decennial. 

Geography

Location of Sonoma, California

Sonoma is located at 38°17′20″N, 122°27′32″W (38.288771, -122.458884)1. According to the United States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of 6.9 km² (2.7 mi²). 6.9 km² (2.7 mi²), none covered by water. The town is situated in the Sonoma Valley, with the Mayacamas Mountains to the east and the Sonoma Mountains to the west, with the prominent landform Sears Point to the southwest. The following areas are nearby:

  • Sonoma County, California - Home County
  • Napa County, California - East
  • Marin County, California - South, South-West
  • Solano County, California - South-East
  • Mendocino County, California - North
  • Lake County, California - North-East
  • Pacific Ocean, United States - West
  • San Pablo Bay, California - South

Environmental features

The principal watercourse in the town is Sonoma Creek, which flows in a southerly direction to discharge ultimately to the Napa Sonoma Marsh; Arroyo Seco Creek is a tributary to Schell Creek with a confluence in the eastern portion of the town. The active Rodgers Fault lies to the west of Sonoma Creek; however, risk of major damage is mitigated by the fact that most of the soils beneath the city consist of a slight alluvial terrace underlain by strongly cemented sedimentary and volcanic rock.[1] To the immediate south, west and east are deeper rich, alluvial soils that support valuable agricultural cultivation. The mountain block to the north rises to 1,200 feet (366 m) and provides an important scenic backdrop, around whose views the city's original streetscape was carefully laid out.

In terms of fauna, there are a variety of birds, small mammals and amphibians who reside in Sonoma. California quail frequent the riparian areas, while white tailed kite, towhee, waxwing, robin, thrush and sparrow bird species are found locally.

The town of Sonoma boasts a relatively quiet setting, with State Highway 12, Fifth Street and Spain Street being the primary noise sources. About eight miles south of the city is the Infineon Raceway, which is also a significant noise generator. The total citywide population exposed to environmental noise exceeding 60 CNEL is approximately 300.

Demographics

As of the latest census2 of 2000, there were 9,128 people, 4,373 households, and 2,361 families residing in the city. The population density was 1,329.9/km² (3,442.3/mi²). There were 4,671 housing units at an average density of 680.6/km² (1,761.5/mi²). The racial makeup of the city was 93.80% White, 0.36% African American, 0.34% Native American, 1.70% Asian, 0.05% Pacific Islander, 1.61% from other races, and 2.14% from two or more races. 6.85% of the population were Hispanic.

There are 4,373 households of which 21.1% have children under the age of 18 living with them, 42.5% were married couples living together, 8.5% had a female householder with no husband present, and 46.0% were non-families. 39.2% of households consist of individuals and 21.5% have someone living alone who is 65 or older. The average household size was 2.07 and the average family size was 2.77. The age distribution is as follows: 18.6% under the age of 18, 4.8% from 18 to 24, 23.5% from 25 to 44, 28.9% from 45 to 64, and 24.2% who have achieved age 65. The median age is 47 years. For every 100 females there were 81.5 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 77.0 males.

The median income for a household in the city was $50,505, and the median income for a family was $65,600. Males had a median income of $51,831 versus $40,276 for females. The per capita income for the city was $32,387. 3.7% of the population and 2.0% of families were below the poverty line. 3.3% of those under 18 and 4.7% of those are 65 and older.

History

The region of Sonoma was originally the home of Native American Coast Miwok tribes as well as the Pomo people and Wintuns. Many of the Native Americans still remain, even after seven changes in government since the Spanish first explored and took over the region (see Sonoma County for governments.)

The town of Sonoma, El Pueblo de Sonoma, began with the Mission San Francisco Solano founded in 1823 by Father Joseph Altimira of Spain. This mission was the farthest north of all 21 California missions connected by a "Royal Road" called El Camino Real. The Mission San Francisco Solano was the sole California mission established under the rule of a newly-independent Mexico, and the last. Soon after it was built, it was secularized by the Mexican government, under the orders of Lieutenant, later General, Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo. Under Vallejo's supervision, the El Presidio de Sonoma, or Sonoma Barracks (part of Spain's Fourth Military District), was built beside the mission for the his army, and he pursued control and order in the region over the native tribes and kept a military eye on the Russians of Fort Ross. Vallejo's relationship with the Native Americans of the region was helped by another resident of Sonoma, his friend and ally the native called Chief (Sem-Yeto) Solano of the Suisunes who had been baptized at the mission.

El Pueblo de Sonoma was laid out in the standard form of a Mexican town, centered around the largest plaza in California. This plaza is surrounded by many historical buildings, including the Mission San Francisco Solano, Captain Salvador Vallejo's Casa Grande, the Presidio of Sonoma, the Blue Wing Inn, and the Toscano Hotel. In the middle of the plaza, Sonoma's early 20th-century city hall, at the plaza's center and still in use, was designed and built with four identical sides in order not to offend the merchants on any one side of the plaza. The plaza is a National Historic Landmark and still serves as the town's focal point, hosting many community festivals and drawing tourists all year round.

Sonoma is known as the birthplace of American California, for it was in this town plaza that the Bear Flag Revolt took place and a Bear Flag was first raised on June 14 1846. The rebelling men claimed to act on the orders of Col. John C. Fremont proclaiming independence from Mexican rule and a free country called the California Republic here. Sonoma served as the capital of the short-lived California Republic until the United States Stars and Stripes flag was raised during the Mexican-American war.

General Vallejo was imprisoned during the Bear Flag Revolt of 1846, and he later transferred his allegiance to the U.S. and endorsed California statehood (1850). With his amassed land holdings, Vallejo guided the development of the town of Sonoma. He was one of the most powerful residents in the town's history, dividing up the lands into large ranches for friends and family.



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